Depending on the year, currents, and bottom topography, the wave formation process begins tens of kilometers from the mainland.
If all these factors are successfully aligned, lethally dangerous giant waves come to the shore instead of the foamy surf, which Big Wave surfers desperately hunt for.
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Mavericks, California
In winter, intense storms rage in the North Pacific Ocean, the echoes of which become one of the reasons for the formation of Mavericks waves with a crest of about 6-7 meters and a total height of about 20-25 meters.
The wave makes it slide at a breakneck speed over the sharp edges of pitfalls that are very close to the surface.
One wrong move, and the surfer can be trapped in the shallow reefs. Perhaps the Mavericks take you over the boulders to a quieter lagoon. But if you’re unlucky.
Despite all the risks, riders flock here like bees to honey. The Mavericks Surf Contest is held in California every season.
If you want to know more about the Mavericks – watch the movie “The Voyagers of the Waves,” The Mavericks play one of the leading roles.
Nazare, Portugal
Over the past few years, Big Wave surfing records have been set on the same Nazare wave.
Hawaiian surfer Garrett McNamara set the first such record in 2011 – then he rode a wave of 24 meters. Then, in 2013, he broke his record by riding a wave 30 meters high.
Why is Nazaré so huge? In the case of them, the bottom relief decides everything. There is a canyon under the water – little, long and deep (up to 5 km).
It is located not parallel to the coast but perpendicular. As you approach land, the canyon’s depth decreases sharply, creating a barrier in the path of the wave and increasing its height many times over.
Colossal masses of water jump over the obstacle and collapse at a distance of several meters from the tourists on duty at the observation decks.
Joe, Hawaii
Many people dream of conquering the waves, but only a few manage to do this.
The Joes are formed from a barrier reef located just under one kilometer from the north coast of Maui.
“Stumbling” on this reef, the waves grow up to 20 m and higher, moving towards the beach at a speed of about 50 km / h.
“The first and greatest danger of riding a Joes is drowning,” said Mathieu Krepel, a professional surfer and protagonist of the documentary Shaka. “Plus, there is the possibility of injury. Plus, I was afraid not to catch the wave and return to the shore with nothing. We also made a movie about it, so it was double pressure.”
Teahupoo, Tahiti
This spot is located on one of the islands of the French Polynesia archipelago.
In translation, the town’s name means “to tear off the head” (whether it is necessary to say that the waves are pretty consistent with the name).
Since 2000, Teahupu has recorded five deaths, the most resonant of which is the death of professional surfer Brice Teresa, who was on the crest of a wave and fell from it right onto the reef.
Banzai Pipeline, Hawaii
Closes our list of a spot on the north coast of the Hawaiian island of Maxi. The waves here are far from the title of “highest”; the danger lies at the bottom of the ocean.
The Pipeline crashes on a mercilessly prickly reef that cripples and kills surfers. However, Pipeline is not becoming less popular.
At the site of the wave formation, there are still many athletes eager for danger and adventure. The game is worth the candle.
The main problem of surfing in these places is the lack of safe swimming zones, creating difficulties for the rescue service.
\In addition, getting to an injured or unconscious surfer on a jet ski is very difficult. Therefore, athletes rely on their training and the ability to hold their breath for a long time.
