Surfing is a very gamble; you always want more, you want to surpass yourself, and, of course, surpass others.
And the first thing that comparison and competition start with is the taken wave’s size.
It has long been known that our brains are prone to exaggeration at the moment of an emotional outburst.
There is even such a famous quote from Buzzy Trent that waves are not measured in feet and inches but in what fear they inspire.
Waves are not measured in feet and inches; they are measured in increments of fear.
Buzzy Trent
Every surfer knows the feeling when, after an epic gurney, you go ashore, sprinkle with saliva, tell you what steep and big waves you took, and then you look at the photo and realize that the waves were shoulder-length at best, and indeed nothing special.
At such moments, you usually think: “It would be better if no one took pictures, but I would remember this day as something outstanding.”
Be that as it may, surfers wondered how to measure the size of the wave objectively and came up with three options.
The most common method was invented by William Bascom, an engineer, scientist, and traveler with varied interests, including surfing.
The essence of the method is as follows: an observer from the shore looks towards the horizon and marks the highest point of the wave and then compares it with the mean sea level at that moment. This method is loved most in California.
Hawaiians approach this issue from a different angle: they measure the height of the waves from the back, which on average, cuts the numerical value in half.
They smile condescendingly at the California method, believing that the guys’ waves are too small to measure them usually.
However, this method has several apparent disadvantages:
- It is difficult to use for small waves because it makes them negligible.
- The human factor is vital, which exposes the result to emotional fluctuations.
- It cannot be confirmed from the shore.
- It is entirely inapplicable for big and fat waves like Tiahupu.
The top point is the ridge, and the bottom end is where the surfer can still bottom-turn. The wave height measured in this way is approximately 2/3 of the Bascomb height.
As they say here in Indonesia: over-chicken-head wave
As for the practical benefits, armed with knowledge, you can always besiege someone:
– I took a wave of two meters
– Nonsense, there was at most one and a half
– Well, that’s how to count!
Sound waves to you, and remember, the main thing is not the size, but the pleasure!
