You may have watched movies where people conquer waves the size of multi-story buildings and then bumped into surfers on the beach, where the wave reaches a maximum of a couple of meters.
I was sure that there was no “like in the movies” for a long time, but I was wrong. Some people wait for the season every year and go to certain places – “spots” where water giants are formed—an utterly insane interaction between the elements and humans.
When I saw the video and photos of how professionals conquer giant waves, I was amazed. I want to share these emotions with you, dear reader!
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Pipeline
They are located off the coast of Oahu, Hawaii. This wave has become a classic of big-wave surfing; every year, extreme athletes from all over the world come to conquer it and organize competitions.
The height reaches 10 m. Several professional surfers and photographers have died here, including Malik Joyeux, a surfer from Tahiti who became famous for riding on Teahupoo.
Teahupoo
Southwest coast of Tahiti island. The heaviest and most recognizable wave. It is impossible to confuse it. She has claimed the lives of five people since 2000.
In 2001, surfer Bryce Taerea, having fallen from a 13-foot wave (a little over 4 meters), hit a reef, broke his neck and spine in 3 places, fell into a coma, and two days later, said goodbye to his life.
Shipsterns bluff
“Devil’s Point” was the name of this wave in the past. Very complex and unpredictable.
Due to the peculiarities of the bottom topography, it breaks down and forms “steps.”
Jaws
It is located on the north coast of Maui. The fastest wave. Height 13-23 meters.
To accelerate and conquer it, they use jet skis.
Mavericks
Northern California. A perilous wave, reaching 25 meters. But it’s not about height.
There is a deep hole at the bottom that attracts unwary surfers. This place is called “Failure.” He is responsible for the deaths of Mark Foo and Sion Milosky.
Nazare
For me, it is the most impressive. The town of Nazare in Portugal has become the site of the annual convention of extreme lovers.
An athlete found this place from Hawaii, Garrett McNamara. He owns the world record – Garrett conquered a massive wave of 24 meters.
