Many call him the best in the world, compared to Kelly Slater in his youth. Today we are translating an article for you from Stab Magazine, in which John John shares his tips on how to get better at surfing.
“I’m doing New York Shuffle for fun, being honest,” John says. Watch the video below for those who are not fumbling about what we are.
John broke the surf Internet for as much as seven days with this video.
“I used to do this duck dive when I was surfing the big waves. Well, now, when I see a big wave, I think, “Oh God, there is a big one,” and I dive as deep as possible.
Many people push the board with their feet, but I do it with my knee. First, I put the nose board’snoser the water, then I dive myself, press down on the tail board’s tail my knee, and push my body even lower.
And then. I hope for the best. I don’t open my eyes underwater. Yes, this way, you can use a column of foam, but the water b this way turns my eyes too much. So I better get into the mix. ”
John John: “When you’ve been surfing for so long, rowing becomes a natural movement for you.”
“I keep my fingers together, but I do not squeeze them. I have long arms so that I can take a long stroke. Then my hand goes under the board and, raking, comes out of the water friends. “
LEARN TO CHOOSE WAVES
“There is no particular trick in this. Knowing how to choose waves comes with experience as you spend time in the ocean and on a specific spot,” says John John.
“You will never understand waves 100 percent, but over time you will begin to understand how this or that alluvium or reef works, and how the wave closes on them at which swell.
It is beneficial to watch the waves from the shore. You know, there are such gurneys when you do not understand where the tide rises.
But then you catch one, mess around on the inside, and one, swimming back out, you already know where you need to sit. It is because you saw how everything looks from the other side. ”
MAKE A CONSCIOUS CHOICE
“Teahupu West Peak is one of the waves that you only begin to understand when you get to know it and the reef better,” says John.
The western ones end in the channel, and the southern ones flap. So there are some things that you can learn about a spot only if you have spent enough time on it.”
LEARN TO FALL
“It’s worth learning,” says John. – The fall depends on the wave. If it is very shallow under my feet, for example, when I jump airs at a depth of thirty centimeters, then I do what I call a “starfish.” I spread my arms and legs to the sides and fall flat.
In this case, you remain on the surface. If the depth is not shallow but the wave is large, the main thing is to calm down. I never get grouped;
I think of it as a roller coaster ride. Then I bring fun, and it’s relaxing. ”
BACK TO BASIC
Remember why we all surf? Because it’s funny!
“Sometimes, it’s nice to remember how you got started. Surfing will continue to bring fun if you constantly try to change things, says John. – Ride on the other side of the wave.
Or do floaters. Once, I watched a wave recording later; it was so interesting, like driving over a pipe. There are many ways to do basic things like cutbacks or floaters.
And each of these methods brings its buzz. So try and draw new lines on the way.”
Break your surfing habit. You will be surprised at the result!
FAN = PROGRESS
If you don’t surf in competitions, you don’t have any pressure on your shoulders.
“I never try to tune myself into a particular mood,” says John. – From the very beginning until today, I just got a fan.
I never thought, “I need to improve my cutbacks” or “I need to watch my backhand on the bottom of the turn.”
I just surfed and got high. Today many surfers take surfing too seriously and take it very seriously. I do not support this whole topic with surf training in the gym.
Why pretend you’re surfing when you can go surfing?
LOOK AT YOURSELF
We understand that not each of us has our cameraman. But finding someone who will be ready to shoot you from the shore is not so difficult.
John John: “Watching videos of your waves is 100 percent helpful for your surfing. You see what looks good and what doesn’t.You see the minor mistakes you make; you understand why you make them. BasYoued to watch the video to see the error; you fix them. “
“You don’t have to think to yourself, ‘I need to fix this or that – it should be more like small mental notes. Instead, you see something, and you think, “It would be cool to do this. Need to try.”
It is perhaps the only way to train John. And if he does it, you can be sure that it is 100 percent effective.
SURFERS WITH THOSE WHO SUPPORT
“This is very important,” says John. – Go surf with someone who will tease you to go beyond your comfort.
He jumps high air, and you try it too. It is something like a “correct” competition, a free surf competition. And no, this is not an oxymoron. ”
EXPLORE YOUR BOARDS
John John: “When it comes to boards, everyone has their prenpriceseryone likes different things.
I can tell him, “since childhood, is board sucks” or “This board only works,” and he can change it. Feedback from your shaper is critical.”
“But just as you learn by looking at the best surfer on the lineup, you can take ideas from other surfers for boards as well. You see what other people are riding, and you can and what you want to change in your panel. “
BE SURE YOU WILL GET
Put aside Tony Robbins’s book and listen to Uncle John: “If I’m thinking of a new trick, I think I can do it for sure.
But also, very often, I think: “If the required section appears, I will do it a hundred pounds,” and in this case, the required section never appears. Well, that’s surfing. ”
“I don’t prepare for something; I go and try to do it. Says John. “It’s better than thinking whether you can or not. Just try it.”
“But be careful – when you are surrounded by something all the time, you can burn out.
For example, I take pictures, ride a skateboard or go sailing. ”
“However, when you watch surf movies and various surf videos, you get charged. You get charged to go and do something, try new things. You need to find a good balance.”
As you can see, John John has his approach to surfing, which can be summed up like this: “Just go surfing, get high, and try something new.” In our opinion, this approach works pretty well in his case. Maybe it will work in yours too?