In addition, like nothing else, it allows us to feel the power of nature literally – to ride a wave without any adaptations and to feel the boundless energy of the ocean with our whole body.
Let’s take a look at the reference books and find a clear definition of body surfing: it is the art of riding a wave without buoyancy or any other means of staying on the surface of the water.
Excellent body surfing should be considered skating without any attachments at all, including fins, but the use of fins for the sake of safety and efficiency is perfectly acceptable.
They allow you to hold a position in a queue, ride a wave, maneuver during a ride and stay on the wave as a whole.
The most exciting moment of body surfing is when the surfer “merges” with the wave, begins to feel it with his whole body, and moves with it.
To reach this crucial initial stage, it is necessary to carefully calculate the start time, which requires consistently powerful and well-timed rowing at the moment when the wave crest passes under the surfer’s body.
A slightly bent back will help redirect water flow under your body, creating the lift effect you need to glide down the wave.
This effect is achieved by lowering the head and heels relative to the body. Again, take dolphins as an example.
Some surfers accomplish the desired result by diving underwater and then emerging at the moment when the wave picks up speed – just like dolphins.
As soon as you catch the wave, that is, you are on its “face,” the most interesting begins. Now you can stretch and roll on your back, controlling your position with one outstretched arm.
Which hand, your own body will tell you – just like it tells you which leg you need to put forward while riding a surfboard. You can use your shoulder as a fin.
But this is just one, the easiest way to ride, using your own body to hold onto the surface.
However, as with any other surfing, body surfers reserve the right to ride how they like, how they “feel” the wave. And body surfing is wholly built on the physical connection between the surfer and the tide, on “sensation.”
Training in body surfing should start with riding on a soft, gentle surf on sandy beaches, and as your skills improve, move on to more powerful and steeper waves.
Large, obstinate waves over the sandy bottom, breaking right near the shore, provide a lot of fun with a minimum of time spent getting back in line.
The Wedge in California is also known for the strength and size of the surf. In general, great places for body surfing can be found worldwide, if you wish.
And this is where the beauty of body surfing is hidden: it is available to anyone, but you can do it anywhere.
Even if you prefer surfboards, bodyboards, or something else, you will lose a lot if you do not allow yourself the pleasure of surfing without aboard, at least occasionally.
So leave your board ashore and catch the war on your own with bare hands and feet.
Increased physical activity, a complicated task and an opportunity to become a more successful surfer in general because you will touch the wave with your own body and learn its true essence and character.
