A longboard is not easy. Yes, it is easier to grow and catch waves on it than on a shortboard, but everything changes in kneading and afterward when you have to break through a set of closing waves.
Not easy, but a matter of habit. And I also understand exactly how the proper technique helps.
Today I want to describe the features of the primary method of breaking waves on a longboard – the popsicle roll.
What is an Eskimo coup, and how to do it?
In the English-speaking environment, it is more often called turtle-roll, that is, a turtle coup, but in Russian, the name has stuck more, referring to the Eskimo method of coupon a kayak (however, personally, this etymology enters me into a stupor when I try to imagine loaded Eskimos in fur coats and reindeer skins that rollover on a kayak, diving into the icy ocean).
In theory, the foam will slide along the bottom of the board and won’t knock you back.
However, in practice, there is a difficulty: the foam still not only spreads over the surface of the water but also boils a little underwater, which means it can get between the person and the board; in this case, the surfboard will jerk firmly, and it can be accidentally released from the hands.
There are several rules on making a popsicle roll to reduce the likelihood of this turn of events.
- Flood your nose
The flip should be done head to wave; that is, the board’s nose meets the foam first.
If you manage to “stick” it into the water, the foam will not get under the board but will slide along the bottom, having almost no effect.
It turns out nearly the same dive as the shortboarders, with the only difference being that the surfer is not above but under the board.
If the foam is quite powerful and profound, the nose needs to be sunk deeper, and for this, you can kick the board’s tail.
It is necessary to kick sharply because simply tilting the committee forward with your weight alone will not work, you need a jerk, and in this case, timing is also essential – so as not to kick in advance, but also not to be late.
- Rollover strictly perpendicular to the wave
To reduce the force of impact, it is necessary to minimize the area of influence of the foam on the board. It is easy to visualize: when meeting the board at an angle, the foam presses diagonally, which is always longer than the perpendicular; that is, it affects more.
- Accelerate low speed towards the wave
The distance that the foam will throw you back can be reduced by gaining a low speed towards the wave in advance.
But, again, timing is critical: you need to row towards the wave (perpendicularly!) Literally until the last moment, and when the foam is already very close – perform a coup.
The board will continue to move by inertia for another second, and as a result, the oncoming foam will first have to slow you down and only then pull you towards the shore.
Technique and attitude are more important than hand strength
If the wave closes and hits the board from above, and your hands are not tense enough, the board will hit you in the forehead.
Even girls often complain that they do not have enough strength, pulling the board out of their hands. It
is all nonsense; you have to “grab” the board with the understanding that it is your float, thanks to which you will quickly float to the surface of the water if the foam is firm.
At this moment, you understand that if the board is ripped out, the leash will stretch, and your legs will be very painful, so you hold it until it melts. And then you are surprised: “Wow, how can I!”
A trick can help: look at the problem from a different angle. Now I will explain using a household analogy.
When I went to the gym, at some point, the question arose: can I pull myself up? The trainer advised me to imagine not that I am pulling my body up, but as if I am pulling the bar down on myself, as on a simulator.
As a result, I pulled myself up several times! It’s the same with the popsicle roll. Do not think you are holding the board that the ocean is trying to take from you. Instead, you have onto the board, with which you can twist you a little.
Eskimo roll keeps you, the board, and those around you safe
If you lose it during a coup or kneading (within 180˚ towards the coast, of course), it flies in an unpredictable direction.
The radius of the affected area is about 5 meters (the length of the board plus the length of the leash), and even more, taking into account the fact that you are not an anchor but also fly with the foam.
Other surfers, of course, should be vigilant, but this will not save you from remorse and possible costs for treatment/repair of the board if you throw the longboard and it hits someone.
Of course, you can throw the board only if you are very, very scared, and you made sure in advance that there is no one below, but in general, I strongly recommend that you do not climb into conditions where you will be very, very scared.
The most terrible thing is learning how to make a coup under a flying linden; now, you want to drop everything and dive more than anything in the world.
But it is now that it is decided whether you will remain after the set of waves with a board or with two halves.
Of course, a complex of circumstances is essential here: how big the waves are, how strong the board is.
But if the board is dear to you (and longboards are usually expensive), finding yourself in the wrong place, you should still do everything possible to save it.
This psychological technique helps to cope with fear: think about the fact that when you make a coup, you are hiding behind a linden board.
Again, you will be 100% pulled into the batch if you throw the board. And if you roll over, there is a chance that you will slip through.
In addition, throwing aboard, you risk being left without it also because the leash from each such maneuver stretches and loses strength, and one day it breaks, and according to the law of meanness – at the most inopportune moment.
Like everything in this life, a quality popsicle roll is a matter of practice. And even an experienced surfer can get into a situation where something went wrong.
But I believe that a detailed understanding of the process helps build neural connections that will work at the right time and allow you to do everything right.